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cheap cardboard boxes for moving Building & Planting a Raised Bed Garden for Growing Vegetables.

by:Mengsheng     2020-03-23
Bed gardening saves too much time and effort, no wonder more people are trying it out.This is the third elevated bed garden we have built in 10 years.The first of this hotel.We are lazy gardeners, after the first year of disastrous vegetable gardening in 2000 (when we sow between rows of vegetables --"Ed Smith, he never looked back when we started efficient and relaxed bed-raising gardening.
We have some strange, weather-related ups and downs like any gardener, but no soul is destroyed, overwhelming or anything that makes us want to give up.With raised beds and coverings, we had no problem keeping them well and organically clearing all the weeds, it was a pleasure.Let me show you what we did here.We were too busy to take pictures despite some filling and construction stages!The footprint of this garden is now about 60 by 60, and plans to put another row of long beds on the outer edge of black plastic next year.
We thought at the time that this was big enough (40 by 40) that we should stop building and grow.Over the past two years, we have persisted long enough in a traditional style garden, everything is planted in July, and there are varying degrees of success in the harvest season.This garden is designed to grow excess for our chickens and sell and feed our families.
This is a very large garden and I would like to decorate it into a central area as the view at the back of our hotel is beautiful.Because if it improves the efficiency of the bed, I would like to let you know that it may be a small part of this size and still produce more than traditional vegetable gardening.One man successfully knocked it out for a month at the beginning of the season, never behind, and never spent more than a few minutes a day.
After the first month, the vegetable factoryCompetition weeds, no weeding.After completion, harvest and enjoy the beautiful scenery most of the time!Picture of "before.For the past two years, we have been growing this area with black plastic covers.
Therefore, the seeds and perennial weeds of weeds are quite clear.The area is level and sheltered by the North shed.Never make the bed 3 feet wide.The back is too hard to reach further than this and if you step in on the bed you compress the soil too much.
We have tried wides 4 feet wide and the difference is obvious.The path width between most beds is also 3 feet.Wide enough to walk comfortably and push the trolley.
We put the larger 6 feet wide area on the squash court and the promenade.The actual layout and length of the bed really depends on you.I always wanted to have a decor area in the center to sit down for tea or a central herb garden, and the first elevated bed garden we made was a series of 3 feet to 5 feet beds.
Get the same area of the garden.
The second garden we made was a series of concentric semi-octagonal gardens with slow and difficult buildings.We had to use the deck screws, and the calculation of the cutting angle of the wood and path width was not worth the hassle.Also, when transitioning from one crop type to another in bed, it is tilted and not as neat or easy as the planting line.
This garden has 3 "x12" and 3 "x16" rectangular beds, with 6 "x20" in the surrounding plan ".We use less wood to get a good planting area, but the bed is still linear for putting multiple plants and varieties on one bed.The bed area clears the weeds and the wooden frame is placed in the appropriate position using the reference string.
We then used a roll of naturally thick biodegradable paper covering 3 feet wide.You can use them if you have flat boxes or newspapers.We prefer unbleached paper without ink and no connection to weeds.
Over time, some things that break down but not too fast are the best.We then fill the bed 1/3 to 1/2 deep with compostered cow dung or compostaged chicken manure and shavings.Filling the raised bed to the top floor of about the edge is the surface soil.
The soil will settle and sink over time, so it's better to fill them up.Heavy duty elevated bed..After 1-2 frost expansion of soil in the bed in winter, if tightened with deck screws, the corners will be separated.We use carriage bolts and plank bolts.The side of the bed goes to the Cedar 4 in the corner by 4.
You can see the corner structure in the picture below.You can use the bolts, but I think the carriage looks better.8-use single 2 \".When the pumping base can pass through the cracks between the beds and build them up on the bed, it makes no economic sense to save money by stacking 2 or 3 high on the 4S.
Stop the bed from moving (in a pleasant way) we use the 18 \ "long metal rebar sledgehammer, 12 inch down inside the bed, and screw it to the inside of the bed plate with a metal pipe ring.If one is willing to put them outside of the bed, it would be more effective to prevent frost expansion of the long side walls in winter.If not Cedar, hammer into the stake in a year or two to stop the bed from rotting.
We use black plastic (occasionally perforated drainage) or weave landscape fabrics with thick cedar bark covering.A covering of 6 inch or more will hold back for weeks, and oil will naturally repel pests.It is important to cover the weed blocks below, because the fabric quickly deteriorate when exposed to UV rays.
You can cover the bottom of the path with newspapers or cartons, but after a year or two, tenacious perennial weeds may pass through.You can also drop the paving boards etc, but this is much more expensive.The heaviest work grid we made was a one-page line, nailed between the other 2-by-4 Wood.
For stability and neatness, the mesh is screwed or bolted to the raised base.We can grow on pumpkins, peas, beans and cucumbers, including pickling and English!Nothing fell and some pumpkin fruit went up 7 feet!You can go 8 feet tall beans if you want7 feet.For runners and pole beans, we sometimes make a tent with a zip on the top and they move easily year by year.
The price of making vertical grids is cheap and you can bind them with a nail gun.In the winter months when the cold and cold wind are whistling, every gardener knows the fun of checking the season's seed catalogue.Tall plants shade short trees.Partial shadow area-Protect plants from wind damageRotate crops every yearPlants in the family concerned should not be planted in the same location-Pests and nutritional needs are often common for families, and pests can last for 2nd years when the soil is eroded by nutrients.
Supporting planting-Planting herbs or other specific vegetables next to vegetables can help repel insects and animal pests.I have a whole bed of flowers suitable for herbal teas such as golden calend flowers and Yangju, which can also repel pests.We can also make it easy for light to move the cold frame from transparent plastic to wood for 2 to 2 seconds.
Our location was windy and cool, and in the spring we were close to Lake Huron, which meant a slow start.These frames are made to match the size of the bed, and we use hook and eye devices in the middle of both sides to keep them in place.These frames can be reused and moved to other beds for crop rotation.
We found that if we used them throughout the season with eggplant, pepper and basil, the yield would be much higher.We will use them to start tomatoes and lettuce and we will remove them as soon as they get warmer in June.In the hot years, there is a certain advantage to have wooden tomato cages.
Metal frames burn plants.
For traditional heavy-duty tomato cages, most of the traditional tomato plants are about 3 times larger.So we used some untreated scrap hard wood from a local furniture factory, made these frames and attached them to the raised bed.Also, in the picture, our tools hang near the protruding part of the roof and weed occasionally.
I prefer the vegetable garden where it is most of the time to harvest or relax.Not everyone can afford pesticides.Grow eco-grown organic vegetables free of charge from the store, but by growing your own fresh and delicious vegetables, not only do you save money, but you know that there is nothing to spray, no wax, no pesticides, radiation herbicide or hormone
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